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Going back in time, one church at a time

16 November, Axum, Ethiopia

Touring north from Addis to Axum has taken us from the present day capital, with all of its bling in the form of cars and multi-story glass buildings, to a time when you demonstrated your wealth and power by erecting a 20-metre granite pillar, complete with expert carvings... Read more


The lure of the bright lights

11 November 2012, Mekele, Ethiopia

Rural life in Ethiopia is very hard. Farming is at a subsistence level, with little left over to sell for luxury goods like pots, shoes and education. During our travels we have called in at several towns and villages to see how people really live, going outside of the tourist bubble that insulates most tourists from the real people of a country... Read more


Feeling on top of the world in the Simien Mountains

7 November, Gonder

Siting amongst Gelada baboons is a dream come true. Many years ago I saw a documentary about these crazy looking baboons who graze on the high plateaux of the Simien Mountains by day, and climb down to crags on the cliffs for safety at night. I never thought I would be lucky enough to spend time with them like I have just done... Read more


Gonder and an early night

4 November, Gonder, Ethiopia

After an early start this morning we reached Gonder by mid morning, 180 km north from Bahir Dar. Spent the rest of the morning and all afternoon visiting the caslte ruins of Fasil Ghebbi, the royal enclosure) and Fasilidas's Pool, a 30x50 metre swimming pool from the 17th century used for religous purposes... Read more


In search of hippo

3 November, Source of the Blue Nile, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.

Today is hippopotamus day, at least that is what is on the itinerary.  Before then though we are heading out on Lake Tana to visit monasteries on Zege Peninsula. There are more than 20 monastic churches on the islands and peninsulas of Lake Tana, many founded during the 14th-century. They are famous for their painted churches and treasure houses... Read more


Tef, the wonder grain

2 November, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia

Today we took our direction from a horse. Well a statue of a horse to be more correct. At the heart of Addis stands a statue to Emperor Menelik II mounted on his horse, this is considered the zero point of all major highways in Ethiopia. The statue is heading north, so we took our bearings and followed the charge... Read more